A Slice of Paradise: Our American Samoa adventure
New Zealand. August 2019. It was time to escape winter for tropical climes.
Almost a year on, hopping on a plane to a small South Pacific island just three hours north of our home country, seems like a distant dream.
1 June 2020. The winter begins again.
This time there’s no option of a sweet escape. We’re living amidst a global pandemic. It’s time to bunker down and mentally prepare for a winter in NZ. First world problems, I know. But nevertheless, the idea of not being able to travel outside your country can be overwhelming when your family reside on the opposite side of the world. And one that I’m sure most restless souls or expats can relate to. So, here I am reminiscing of travels to a faraway place, where adventure is pure and wild, and a connection with nature exists round every corner.
Here is a photo journal from our four days on the island. Be sure to read to the end where you’ll find some fun facts about American Samoa and what it’s like to travel there. It’s a pretty unique slice of the South Pacific.
And if you’re just here for the waves? Keep reading, I’ll get to those…
The journey begins: getting to American Samoa
It took us minus 27 hours to arrive in Tutuila - or as it’s more commonly known - American Samoa.
After an overnight in Upolu (Samoa) we hopped on a 20 minute flight that would take us 68 nautical miles east to Tutuila (American Samoa) and 24 hours back in time. On that short flight, we enjoyed the novelty of crossing the international date line (very confusing for booking flights!) and after being weighed along with our luggage, we were allocated seats according to our weight. I couldn’t believe my luck when they placed me next to the pilot IN THE COCKPIT! It was day two of our trip and the travel froth was already real. I just had to try not to touch all the buttons in front of me and steering wheel between my legs…
Planning a trip to American Samoa?
Getting to American Samoa takes a little more planning than some South Pacific destinations. We travelled via Samoa, staying overnight in Upolu before taking the short flight to Tutuila.
You can compare flights to American Samoa on Skyscanner here →
Exploring American Samoa
We went to American Samoa to spend time in the tropics, but also to visit our friend Mand who was living on the island at the time as an engineer. She is my adventure hero! She led us to rock pools, secret beaches and underwater worlds; she showed us the best local spot to eat Umu on the island, took us on a tinny boat adventure into the pure wilderness and through banana plantations with a machete in hand to scare off overprotective island dogs and so much more. Mand introduced us to her dog Timotae who we immediately fell in love with. And when we went on our first swim out the back of Mand’s house, I realised he would be a gem in front of the camera. This dog loves to swim.
Above: This is Timotae. He likes to swim, is scared of other dogs and enjoys chasing chickens.
A gals best friend
Pooch, tidal rock pool, salty hangouts and a waxing gibbous moon perched among candy floss clouds at sundown = LIFE (right?)
And that was only day one…
Mand continued to drive us to hidden gems on the island (at no more than 30 miles per hour at all times) which she’d discovered previously. While I would usually love to explore with my own sense of curiosity, this place is seriously wild and having someone familiar with the lay of the land and local customs felt super important. We only had four days on the island to see as many corners as we could!
The wild nature-immersed adventures continue in stills below.
Snorkelling in American Samoa: Deep blue magic
In hindsight, we snorkelled pretty far out beyond the reef. Mand took us to this hidden cave where I firmly planted my ass to the rock trying not to slip off as the water rushed in and out, while Mand and Mark practiced their rock jumping skills. And it was from here, looking back to land that we could see the little yellow house on the hill, aka the bus driver’s house.
Above: Spot the yellow house on the hill.
After searching for the engine to the tinny boat for two days in a row, we finally found it on day three, and Mand led us out to a beach. We also searched for a waterfall that entered the ocean which she’d heard about, and saw a turtle in the bay we’d snorkelled in previously as we boosted out in the little boat. Timotae loves to swim, but for some reason he’s not keen on the boat, so we left him behind for this adventure. Good news was we found the waterfall, and we were the only people out in the secret beach. To be honest, pretty much every single adventure we embarked on, we were the only people there. This made it feel raw and intimidating; the vast South Pacific ocean engulfing all corners of our view, no other humans or boats in sight apart from those stranded on the reef…
Above: Perspectives of adventures to a secluded beach.
From American Samoa to Condé Nast Traveller
One of the photographs from this trip was later featured by Condé Nast Traveller Germany. Still one of those crazy full-circle moments from four wild days photographing this tiny corner of the South Pacific.
A blue sea star (Linckia laevigata) tucked amongst the coral in American Samoa. One of my favourite little finds from this trip, and a photograph that was later licensed by Condé Nast Traveller Germany.
Surfing in American Samoa
Slabby, gnarly, reefy? YES. But the waves exist here. You just have to drive round the island to search them out. No surf spot guide, just good old-fashioned wave-searching.
The downside of travel-froth inducing tiny flight I mentioned earlier? Mark’s surfboard didn’t fit. But the Samoan people are problem solvers, so there was a solution. We sent it cargo. Not recommended if you only have a few days on the island… It arrived 2 days into our 4 day trip, meaning that we pretty much had to send it back as soon as it arrived to ensure it would get on a cargo flight back to Samoa for us to receive it there. That board is well travelled! The swell arrived on day three and with very few surfers on the island, getting out there at a new rocky reef break wasn’t a safe option in our minds, but it was great to search out spots and drool from the land.
American Samoa travel tips and fun facts
How to get to American Samoa
Double-check your dates when flying between Samoa and American Samoa. The flight itself is only around 20 minutes, but you cross the International Date Line and arrive a full day earlier. We knew this. We checked our booking repeatedly because we knew this. And we STILL managed to book the wrong day. 😂
Do you need a visa to visit American Samoa?
Entry requirements for American Samoa depend on your nationality and have changed since our trip in 2019. New Zealand, Australian and UK citizens are currently among the nationalities eligible for American Samoa's Entry Permit Waiver Program for visits of up to 30 days, subject to the programme's requirements. Always check the latest requirements with the American Samoa Government before booking your trip.
The official name of American Samoa is Tutuila.
A traditional meal is cooked in an Umu, a big oven above the ground made out of rocks that can be found by the river.
There is one main road that does NOT fully circle the island of Tutuila.
The maximum speed limit of the island is 30 miles per hour, and in most areas that is 25 miles per hour (40km/h).
Oka, a traditional raw fish dish is a must-try.
Flying from Upolu (Western Samoa) to Tutuila (American Samoa) takes only 20 minutes, but will take you back one whole day.
Walking through plantations sounds like a wild adventure, but we did this with respect to the locals and asked when crossing their land.
There is a tuna cannery on the main road in Pago Pago harbour and it’s stinky as. I haven’t eaten canned tuna since…
Shipwrecks lie stranded on the gnarly reef. You’ll be sure to spot a few that have run aground!
Thanks so much to Mand for teaching us about life on Tutuila and taking us on intimidatingly wild adventures on both land and sea. I hope you enjoy this photo series from a tropical world deep in the South Pacific.
Planning a trip to American Samoa
How do you get to American Samoa?
American Samoa’s main international airport is Pago Pago International Airport (PPG) on the island of Tutuila.
We travelled from New Zealand via Samoa, stayed overnight on Upolu, and then flew from Samoa to American Samoa. Depending on where you're travelling from, it’s worth comparing routes and dates before booking as getting there can take a little more planning than some other Pacific destinations.
Planning your trip? Compare flights to American Samoa on Skyscanner →
Can you fly from Samoa to American Samoa?
Yes. Samoa Airways currently operates flights between Samoa and Pago Pago in American Samoa.
When we travelled, the flight itself was tiny and incredibly memorable. We were weighed along with our luggage before seats were allocated according to weight, and I somehow ended up sitting next to the pilot in the cockpit.
The flight is short, but there is one VERY important thing to understand before booking: Samoa and American Samoa sit on opposite sides of the International Date Line. Current Samoa Airways schedules specifically warn passengers that flights from Samoa to Pago Pago arrive on the previous day's date.
What happens to the date when you fly from Samoa to American Samoa?
This is where things get confusing.
Fly from Samoa to American Samoa and you travel back an entire calendar day. Fly in the opposite direction and you jump forward to the next day. Samoa Airways specifically flags this timezone change in its current schedules.
And believe me when I say: double-check your dates when you book.
We knew about the International Date Line. We checked our flights repeatedly because we knew it could get confusing. And we STILL managed to book the wrong day.
So when you’re booking accommodation and connecting flights between Samoa and American Samoa, look at the actual arrival date, not just the departure date, and check everything again before you pay.
Do you need a visa or entry permit for American Samoa?
American Samoa has its own immigration and entry requirements, separate from both Samoa and the mainland United States, so don't assume that the entry rules for either of those destinations automatically apply.
Entry requirements depend on your nationality and can change. American Samoa currently operates an Entry Permit Waiver Program for citizens of selected countries travelling for tourism or business for stays of up to 30 days, subject to its requirements.
We travelled in 2019 and the process was different, so rather than relying on our experience, I strongly recommend checking the current requirements directly with the American Samoa Government before booking your trip.
How many days do you need in American Samoa?
We had four days on Tutuila and packed a LOT into them.
Four days was enough to explore beaches, rock pools, snorkel, search for surf and head out on a boat, but I would happily have stayed longer. Having a friend living on the island also made an enormous difference because she knew where she was going and understood the local customs.
If you want a slower trip, or you’re hoping to explore beyond Tutuila, I’d give yourself more time rather than trying to squeeze American Samoa into a couple of days.
Do you need a car in American Samoa?
For the kind of trip we did, having access to a car was incredibly useful.
Tutuila is wild and mountainous, and many of the places we visited were spread around the island rather than clustered around one central tourist area. Our friend drove us everywhere, which gave us the freedom to explore beaches, swimming spots and different parts of the coastline.
If you want to explore independently rather than staying mainly around Pago Pago, I would definitely research your transport options before arriving.
Is American Samoa good for surfing?
There are waves in American Samoa, but this isn’t somewhere I’d recommend arriving with a list of famous surf breaks and expecting an easy surf holiday.
The waves we found were reefy, powerful and relatively isolated. We spent a lot of time simply driving around looking for surf rather than following a surf-spot guide, and with very few other surfers around, paddling out at an unfamiliar rocky reef break wasn’t something we were prepared to do casually.
There’s also the practical issue of getting surfboards there. Our board didn’t fit on the small flight from Samoa, so it had to travel separately as cargo and arrived two days into our four-day trip.
If surfing is one of the main reasons for your visit, plan your board transport before you go and approach unfamiliar breaks with caution.
What's the difference between Samoa and American Samoa?
Despite their shared Samoan culture, history and geography, Samoa and American Samoa are separate political territories.
Samoa is an independent country, while American Samoa is an unincorporated territory of the United States. They have different immigration systems, currencies and time zones.
They’re geographically incredibly close, but because they sit on opposite sides of the International Date Line, travelling between them also means changing calendar days.
That makes visiting both on the same trip an amazing experience, but one that requires a little more planning than the 20-something-minute flight between them might suggest.