10 Essential surf and water photography tips for beginners
Fujifilm X-T3 | WR XF 80mm | 80mm | 1/500 sec | f/6.9 | ISO 160
The first time I ever tried surf photography, I destroyed my camera. Within minutes.
I thought I was being clever with a cheap waterproof case, but one wave was all it took for the ocean to swallow my gear.
But here’s the twist: that disaster didn’t put me off. It hooked me for life.
I remember the silver shimmer of the sea against an overcast sky, Mauao (Mount Maunganui) glowing blue in the distance, and a lone surfer paddling out who’s still a friend to this day. As I duck-dived with nothing but a leaky camera bag, I felt something electric: the same rush I’d known from surfing, but with a lens instead of a board.
That was the moment I realised surf photography isn’t just about taking photos — it’s about capturing raw joy, awe, and the energy of being alive in the ocean. And it’s a journey anyone can start, no matter your gear or experience.
If you’re standing where I once was — curious, nervous, not sure where to begin — this guide is for you. These are my 10 essential surf and water photography tips for beginners to help you get in the water, protect your gear, and start capturing the ocean at its most magical.
Surf photography made simple
1. Choose the right housing and gear
The first big step is figuring out how to get your camera safely into the ocean. And trust me, your choice of housing matters. My first attempt with the DiCAPac ended in heartbreak. It is simply not built for surf conditions.
I started out with a GoPro. It was fun, but I quickly felt limited. One winter sunset session on the East Coast of New Zealand sealed the deal for me. I was out surfing with my partner, and the sky turned the most unreal shades of pink, I called it marshmallow skies. I dipped my face to the water level, framed up the scene, and thought, this is art. That is when I knew I needed a proper housing for my camera so I could create fine-art quality photography.
From there, I started experimenting with Seafrogs housings, affordable, functional, and they have served me well, and later Aquatech, the more expensive option but absolutely worth the investment once you are committed. If you are just testing the waters, you can even start with an AxisGo setup for your phone. But whatever you do, do not skimp on protecting your gear.
If you want to explore options, check out Seafrogs for affordable surf housings, or Aquatech for professional-level builds trusted by surf photographers worldwide.
My golden rule: test your housing in shallow water first, and keep some silicone grease handy for those o-rings.
2. Master shutter speed for waves
One of the most powerful ways to bring the ocean to life is through shutter speed. A fast shutter, 1/1000 sec or more, will freeze water droplets mid-air and capture a surfer mid-turn in perfect clarity. A slower shutter, on the other hand, transforms moving water into soft streaks and motion blur, giving your photos a dreamy, almost painterly quality.
The first time I experimented with shutter speed was not even in the water, it was on land, watching waves roll in at sunrise. I would pan my camera across the horizon as sets came through, playing with slower shutter speeds to capture that sense of motion. I quickly learned that the best time for these kinds of shots is early morning or late evening, when the light is softer.
Fujifilm X-T3 | WR XF 100-400mm | 100mm | 1/15 sec | f/4.3 | ISO 160 | Buy this print
That early experimenting on land taught me a valuable lesson: get to know your gear in a safe, controlled environment first. When you are in the water, things happen fast, waves are breaking, surfers are moving, light is changing. If you have already built muscle memory for how your camera behaves at different shutter speeds, you will be ready to adapt in the moment.
Pro tip: start at 1/1000 sec for freezing action, and experiment with 1/30–1/60 sec for panning shots that capture speed and motion.
3. Shoot at golden hour
There is a reason photographers chase dawn and dusk, the light is softer, the colours richer, and everything feels more magical. In surf photography, golden hour is not just about light, it is about mood.
One of my favourite examples of this is a photo I call Peach Peeler. Mark and I were on a romantic weekend away on the East Cape, staying at a little beachfront Airbnb. We walked barefoot across the grass, down the wooden steps, and straight into turquoise water. The waves there break differently to my local, perfectly shaped, hypnotic to watch and photograph. Just before dawn broke, the sky turned a soft peach, painting the sea in surreal tones. The contrast of rich turquoise waves against that peach sky has made this image one of my most popular prints to date.
If you only remember one thing: always, always check the light at sunrise or sunset. Those fleeting colours often deliver your most unforgettable images.
Fujifilm X-T3 | WR XF 16-55mm | 48.5mm | 1/500 sec | f/2.9 | ISO 200
4. Do you really need a wide angle lens?
A lot of surf photography guides will tell you to shoot wide in the water, think fisheye or 16–35mm. And yes, a wide angle lens can create big, dramatic scenes. But here is my honest take: it is not always the best choice, especially for beginners.
I started out with wide angles in the water, and here is what I learned: it is tricky. To fill the frame, you need to be extremely close to the action, which is not always safe for you or the surfer. Without a dome port, it is also difficult to get a clean, balanced shot.
These days, my go-to is an 80–90mm lens in a flat port. It allows me to position myself in that sweet spot, close enough to capture detail and intimacy, but far enough to stay safe and give surfers their space. The compression from a longer lens also makes the waves feel more powerful and layered, which I personally love.
My advice on wide angle lenses for surf and water photography: do not feel pressured to start wide. Experiment. Find the lens that helps you tell the story you want to tell.
5. Put safety first in the ocean
This might be the least glamorous tip, but it is the most important. Respect the ocean. Your safety and the surfers’ safety always comes before the shot.
On our coast, there is a gutter that runs along the sand bank underwater. On high tide, it becomes deeper water and very rippy. One day, I was out swimming with two girlfriends. They had already surfed in, but I lingered, kicking on my back trying to get to shore. No matter how hard I kicked, the beach did not seem to get any closer. I remember seeing my friend walking up the sand and wishing I had asked her for a tow.
Eventually I made it in, but only by staying calm. In conditions like that, I lie on my back, hold my camera by my side, angle myself toward the shore, and just kick steadily. Panic never helps in the ocean. Fins saved me that day, I do not think I would have made it back without them.
The golden rule: know your limits, use fins, and always respect currents. No photo is worth risking your safety.
6. Stay patient for the perfect wave
Surf photography is 50 percent swimming and waiting, 50 percent actually shooting. The ocean is unpredictable, especially at beach breaks, and the best shots often come in between long lulls.
One morning stands out as a perfect example. A girlfriend of mine wanted photos of her surfing in a skirt, such a fun concept. The waves that day were pretty average, a bit clunky, but we paddled out anyway. After she caught a so-so wave, she was paddling back out when suddenly, out of nowhere, this perfect wave rolled in. Totally unexpected. I was in position, ready, and captured it.
We both started screaming with excitement in the water. That photo remains one of my favourites to this day, not just because of the shot itself, but because of the stoke we shared in that moment.
Fujifilm X-T3 | WR XF 80mm | 80mm | 1/1000 sec | f/2.9 | ISO 160
Lesson learned: patience pays off. Even on average days, magic can happen when the ocean decides to deliver.
7. Composition tricks: shoot low and look for light
Composition is where surf photography shifts from documenting to creating art. The ocean is full of dynamic lines, reflections, and shifting perspectives, and small changes in angle can completely transform your image.
One of my favourite approaches is shooting just below the surface of the water during the day. I first discovered this while swimming off an island with crystal clear water. I would dive slightly under, look for shards of light filtering through, and let nature do the rest. Those moments led to photos like Cosmic Underworld, abstract, otherworldly frames that I sometimes flip upside down in post to challenge perceptions of what is above and what is below.
Fujifilm X-T3 | WR XF 16-55mm | 24.2mm | 1/1000 sec | f/3.3 | ISO 160
When I am photographing surfers, I think about positioning as much as composition. On beach breaks, it is harder to predict, but at point breaks you can anticipate where a surfer will line up. Sometimes I will shoot from the front so they pass across the frame, other times from the side so they are coming straight toward the lens. It is all about imagining the photo before it happens, then moving into position to make it real.
Pro tip: get low, experiment with underwater perspectives, and do not be afraid to play with orientation in post.
8. Editing tips for ocean photography
If you are serious about surf photography, shoot in RAW. The ocean is ever-changing, and RAW gives you the detail and tonal range you need to bring that beauty to life in post.
When I open a RAW ocean photo, it often looks dull compared to what I saw in the moment. But with a few thoughtful adjustments, the scene transforms. I bring down highlights to recover spray detail, adjust the white balance to strike the perfect warmth-to-cool ratio, and balance the blues so they feel natural. Texture, clarity, and dehaze can be powerful tools too, but I use them sparingly, just enough to enhance the silky detail in water and light shards.
Sometimes, I will even flip an underwater shot upside down to challenge perceptions and create something otherworldly. For me, editing is not about fixing an image, it is about translating the wonder and amazement I felt into colour, depth, and story.
Tip: Do not oversaturate. Let the ocean’s beauty speak for itself.
9. Use presets and workflows to save time
Editing every image from scratch is exhausting, and it can pull you out of the creative flow. That is where presets come in. But for me, presets are not just about speed or consistency. They are about storytelling.
When I design and use my presets, my goal is to evoke the exact feeling of being immersed in the ocean, the wonder, the awe, the beauty as I see it with my own eyes. I want the depth of the turquoise, the warmth of dawn light, the mood of a fleeting moment to translate straight into the photo.
Presets give me a foundation to bring that mood to life quickly, so I can focus on the artistry instead of endlessly tweaking sliders. They are also what I lean on when I want consistency across a series, like my Peach Peeler images, where the warm sky and cool water tones come together in harmony.
10. Practice, experiment, and evolve
The best surf photographers are not the ones with the fanciest gear, they are the ones willing to take risks, to experiment, and to evolve with every shoot. Sometimes that means trying a new setting. Other times, it is about letting go of the plan and reacting to what nature gives you.
One of my favourite examples was a morning I climbed Mount Maunganui in the dark, guided only by the swell charts and a weather forecast that promised a big swell. I had no idea what I would actually see from the top. I set up my tripod with a wide lens, ready to capture the iconic Mount sunrise shot. While I waited for light, I played around with long exposures, planning to go home with that postcard-style photo.
But as soon as dawn broke, I saw the ocean below come alive. Massive sets were moving into Mount Main Beach, raw, wild, and breaking with so much beauty. As the first rays of sunlight hit the white caps, I scrapped my original plan, swapped to my 100–400mm lens, and started capturing the waves instead.
That decision paid off. Those wave shots went on to feature in my calendars, and I have sold prints of that very moment. It was a reminder that experimentation is not just technical, it is about being open to the unknown and trusting your instincts when nature surprises you.
Fujifilm X-T3 | WR XF 100-400mm | 196mm | 1/125 sec | f/5.6 | ISO 160
Keep experimenting, stay curious, and do not be afraid to throw out the iconic shot for the one that makes your heart race.
The TLDR: a note to beginners
The ocean is always changing, and so will your photography. Some days you will come home with memory cards full of shots, other days just one frame that makes it all worth it. You will fumble, learn, adapt, and then one day you will look back and realise just how far you have come.
What matters most is that you keep showing up, with patience, curiosity, and respect for the sea. Every session teaches you something new. Every wave is an opportunity to create art. And every time you step into the water, you will feel that mix of excitement and intimidation that makes surf photography so addictive.
So start small, stay safe, and let your work evolve. Trust me: those fleeting moments of magic are worth every early wake-up, every swim through whitewash, and every frame that did not quite work.
If you want to learn more, check out the 14 most common questions I’m asked.
Until then, stay patient, stay curious, and most importantly, stay safe in the water.
L x
FAQs: Surf and Water Photography for Beginners
Where can I start surf photography as a beginner?
Start on the beach with a zoom lens to practice composition and camera settings before swimming out. When you feel comfortable, move into shallow water with a safe setup.
What gear do I need for surf photography?
At minimum: a waterproof housing, fins, and a camera with good burst speed. Beginners often start with GoPros or AxisGo phone housings, then upgrade to Seafrogs or Aquatech.
What is the best lens for surf photography beginners?
Wide angle lenses create dramatic close-up shots, but longer lenses (80–90mm) are easier for beginners and safer when photographing surfers.
When is the best time to take surf photos?
Golden hour (just after sunrise and before sunset) offers the most flattering light and magical tones for surf photography.
Is surf photography dangerous?
It can be. Always put safety first, know your limits, wear fins, and never shoot alone in heavy surf.
Can I edit surf photos on my phone?
Yes. Apps like Lightroom Mobile paired with ocean-inspired presets can help you achieve professional results on the go.